Beaune - Clos des Mouches 1985 J. Drouhin
7/94. Acquired from Beaune Jun-94 for $32 (imported for $40 net).
One of the best Beaune 1er Cru from Drouhin's own Domain.
Approached the bottle with apprehension. Some suggested that the '85s are
beyond their prime, prepared myself for disappointment.
One hour "chambree" from 14C, stood open for another 30 min.
First impression: Medium red-ruby color, no sign of browning. Fantastic strong
red-fruits and flowery aroma! Fruity taste with vibrant acidic overtones, long
lasting finish. The total sensation of a young, vigorous, but open wine.
First course: Assortment of mild Chinese "Dim Sum" (from a near-by Deli...< g >).
After the first bite or two, the wine (come d'habitude) loses the initial
astringency and becomes very smooth and savory on the palate. A hint of earthy
leathery quality starts to creep in.
Main course: Fillet stake covered with mushrooms and bacon, baked in a
coarse-salt envelope (another masterpiece by she who must be obeyed).
The wine, obviously fully mature, retains a curious and exciting balance
between youth and grown-up qualities! Still fruity though less strikingly so
then at the beginning, but with the added unmistakable Bourgogne touch of... I
can never find the right word for it in ANY language. Nevertheless anybody who
have tasted a good mature Bourgogne knows what I'm taking about. Extremely
tasty and long (about 30 sec.), the mixture of fruit and "velvet
barnyard?< vbg >" makes this wine a great companion to the tasteful dish. We
struggled to leave some wine for the cheese plate, but frankly very little was
left. This is an immensely tasty wine. Now in its prime.
Usually a wine has fruity qualities in its youth, and mature sober silkiness
in its maturity (many times with a "dumb" phase in between). This bottle
combined the good characters of both without any hint of dumbness.
What stands between this excellent wine and a great one, is perhaps the lack
of multi-layers of ever developing tastes I've come to associate with the
truly great Bourgognes.
Another very minor disturbing fact (an advantage to some?) is that the wine,
from first to last drop, was clear as water. No trace of sediment. It must
have been filtered to leave absolutely no sediment after ten years! I'm pretty
sure the filter took some of the taste-giving stuff away. Personally I dont
mind a little sediment at all. All in all, a superb wine, tasty and wholesome.
MARK: 18/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.
Reach Me? email@example.com
Jacob "Yak" Shaya.