Corton, La Vigne au Saint 1985 L. Latour
9/94. Acquired from Beaune June-94 for $34 (imported for 45 net).
Another of Louis Latour's Grand Cru reds. The plot of 'La Vigne Au Saint' in
Aloxe-Corton is almost a monopole of Latour. The domaine owns about 85% of the
In view of the controversy lately surrounded the 1985 vintage and its keeping
ability, and in fear I will not be able to participate in the "Burgundy
Conference" tonight with glass at hand (time will be 4:30-5:30 AM in Israel),
we decided to open a supposedly very good '85 Bourgogne for dinner tonight.
Let me start from the end. It was a GREAT bottle!!! We didn't let it breathe
more than 10 min before we took a taste fearing it was a goner.
COLOR: Light red-brown, turning orange towards the rim. More fear...
NOSE: Delicate cherry fruit surrounded by the Bourgogne typical perfume. When
I say perfume I mean just that. It was not 'barnyard' not any other type of
'merde'. Just the typical Bourgogne aroma together with delicate red fruit,
flowers and generally ethery (not earthy) quality.
TASTE: Vibrant, fruity, filling the mouth with the right amount of acidity and
soft tannins to give the impression of a mature, yet full-of-life good
FINISH: A bit bitterish at first, turning into smooth lingering after-taste in
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Good acidity to match alcohol and very soft tannins.
The wine developed with the food: Mushroom 'ragou' with baked red-peppers, Coq
au vin with 'dophinee' potatoes, Camembert, Gauda and chevre (goat) cheese.
OVERALL: The only 'reservation' I may have with this wine, is that everything
about it was too delicate and in minor-key. It is not a 'great' full-bodied
wine but rather a delicious, totally satisfying red Bourgogne. Maybe not
deserving the full Grand Cru status, but a top-notch 1er Cru. Nevertheless, a
truly comme-il-fault Bourgogne. I'd say this wine is the best Latour's red I
had in years. It is certainly better than same-vintage, same-source Le
Chambertin, Mazis Chambertin and Romanee St.-Vivant. All considered better
vineyards and all costing much more.
MARK: 17+/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.
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Jacob "Yak" Shaya.