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Tonight, for New Year's Eve, an excellent dinner for four, accompanied by three (B)s
plus Calvados,
Camus XO & Royal Salute. (As I write this just after we finished, spelling and
syntax mistakes in excess of the usual are to be forgiven < g >). Two of the
three courses were taken from the Wine Forum recipes. The main course (the
weakest!) from a Decanter-Magazine Scottish recipe. Everything but the
wines were Dorit's production as usual.
Chablis - Les Clos 1990 J. Drouhin
12/94. Acquired from Beaune June-94 for $23 (imported for $30 net).
First taste of the 1990 vintage of this, usually excellent, wine from
Drouhin's own Domaine.
COLOR: Clear, normal Chablis tinted yellow.
NOSE: Pleasant, but not overwhelming fruit or anything else for that matter.
Quite disappointing.
TASTE: In my experience, many times taste does not fulfill the nose's
promises. Here it was the other way around. Rich 'fatty' taste, dry yet
discernable honey overtones. A bit tannic and close.
LENGTH: Quite lingering, though develops an unpleasant after-taste.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: 13% Alcohol, good acidity, some bitterness (too young?),
not great balance.
OVERALL: A let down compared to the '86 and '89 I had many times. I hope this
is not indicative of the 1990 vintage, as I have quite a few other whites from
this vintage. Still, a very good wine taken on its own.
MARK: 16/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Maybe.
Gevrey-Chambertin 1989 Dom. Esmonin
12/94. Acquired from Nuits-St. Georges Dec-94 for $22 (imported for $33 net).
We rarely drink 'Villages' (B)s. This wine was acquired following strong
recommendation by Peter Finkelstein.
COLOR: Medium ruby red, bright up to the rim, a bit too clear.
NOSE: Abundant red fruit, a bit aggressive (but in no way distracting)
'Bourgogne' aroma.
TASTE: Young, mouth-filling vibrant taste. Certainly Gevrey but a bit coarse.
LENGTH: Medium length, but tasty to the last hint.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: 13.5% Alcohol, medium body, good acidity, still some strong
tannins, not yet fully mature.
OVERALL: Not a great (B), but very enjoyable nevertheless. May get better in a
year or two.
MARK: 16+/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.
Gevrey - Les Cazetiers 1985 L. Jadot
12/94. Acquired from Beaune Jun-94 for $36 (imported for $45 net).
Second time in a couple of months that we have this 'super-second' 1er Cru
from Jadot's own Domaine.
COLOR: Deep, very impressive garnet-red, paling a bit towards the rim.
NOSE: Immense bouquet. Subdued but discernable fruit, earth, mushrooms and a
fantastic velvety 'Bourgogne' smell. One of the best (B) nose I have
experienced.
TASTE: Fully mature complex wine, developing in the mouth, and most of all -
very tasty. Too good to analyze.
LENGTH: Never ending.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: 13.5% Alcohol. A full-fledged 'manly' Gevrey, yet delicate
and sleek. Alcohol and acidity happy marriage. Almost no tannins felt.
OVERALL: A truly extraordinary great (B), a Grand Cru for all practical
purposes except pedigree and price. I hope it will stay that way for a couple
of years as I have four more bottles < g >.
MARK: 19/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.
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