Gevrey-Chambertin		1989	Dom. Esmonin

5/95. Acquired from Nuits-St. Georges Dec-94 for $22 (imported for $33 net).
(Comparatively expensive at $11 overhead. That is the reason why I seldom import inexpensive wines. By the time I get them they are 50% more expensive).
Tonight, wanted to demonstrate a Bourgogne to a totally uninitiated, but eager young man.
COLOR: Medium brick-red, a bit brownish hue.
NOSE: Beautiful 'Bourgogne nose', no discernable fruit per se, but excellent Gevrey terroir of meaty leathery elements with spicy qualities.
TASTE: Extremely tasty, and relatively multi-layered. Soft and smooth but 'fleshy' and 'gamey' with totally resolved tannins. The young guest, who has no wine vocabulary whatsoever, offered this comment: "What an amazing wine, the taste changes in the mouth by the second!". I can hardly think of a better compliment to a village wine.
LENGTH: Medium long but very pleasant 'tingling' aftertaste.
TEXTURE & Balance: Chewy wine with the right amount of acidity to counter the earthy, gamey flavors. Absolutely 'En Point'. If you happen to have a bottle - now is the time to drink.
OVERALL: An excellent wine, especially if you consider the 'lowly' appellation. It seems to have improved noticeably since it had this wine last time about six months ago. I wouldn't wait more than a year or two as almost no tannins were felt. I cannot imagine a better village (B).
MARK: 17/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Maybe.

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Copyright 1996-2003.
Jacob "Yak" Shaya.