Bonnes Mares				1983	G. Roumier

6/95. Bought in auction for $100 Feb-95 (Imported from Chicago for $110 net).
One of the best Grand Crus that takes many years to open up, from one of the best sources in the Cote de Nuits.
Opened this evening for dinner to cheer ourselves up, as there seem to be some problems with the contractor of our new apartment...
The bottle had a faint stain along one side of the label. When we opened the bottle, the inside of the cork was also stained exactly on the same side where the label was stained. I was concerned! But when we let the bottle breathe for a while and then poured into the glasses, there was nothing wrong - only good things came out. Let me say from the start: One of the best (B) I ever had!
COLOR: Medium-deep red with slightly brownish hues, a little paling towards the rim, but all in all very good color.
NOSE: "Ah...", "Wow..." and similar noises accompanied each sniff. A stranger won't understand that, but if you remember the smell of the best (B) you had - this one is similar. A subdued, but very discernible forest fruit, surrounded by the most enticing 'Bourgogne Nose' one can imagine. The scent was so vigorous and powerful, that we were afraid the taste won't be able to match the expectations.
TASTE: Perfection! An amazing mixtures of tastes. First, the sweetness of a mature Grand Cru. Then the sensation of fully integrated and opened wine. Then the surprise at the vigor and youthfulness of this wine. Such a delicious nectar makes one wonder how much better can it get...
LENGTH: The aftertaste plays extremely long and wonderful 'tap-dance' with your palate.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Very soft and silky, but full bodied. Nothing 'fragile' about this wine. I'd say an outer layer of delicacy covering a sturdy backbone core. The keyword for this extraordinary wine is balance! Fully mature yet full of life. Concentrated and full bodied yet soft and silky. Totally opened and integrated, yet one feels the excellent balance between the good acidity, alcohol, and the soft tannins that still abound. There is no doubt this wine has some more years to go. Another proof (if one was needed) that 12-13 years from the vintage is the earliest one should touch a good Bonnes Mares.
OVERALL: Really and truly an extraordinary wine! Cannot think of anything more one might wish for in a bottle of wine. This wine is not cheap, but let it be clear that it could easily be two or three times more expensive. If either Bonnes Mares or 1983 would be more 'fashionable' in the U.S. its price could easily reach the $200-$300 range. As it is I recommend this wine wholeheartedly, if you can find it. I am really glad I have three more bottles.
MARK: 19+/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.

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Jacob "Yak" Shaya.