Gevrey - Clos St. Jacques	1971	Clair-Dau

11/95. Acquired from London August-95 for $56 (imoprted for $66 net).
Tonight we opened this rare bottle for Friday night dinner. Dorit prepared a three-mushroom ragu for first course, a beef filet - marinated for long hours in balsamic oil, olive oil, oregano, rosemary and freshly-ground pepper, accompanied by baked potatoes in cream and dill - for main course. Then some cheese, ice-cream and Royal Salute with the coffee.
Clos St. Jacques being the most 'Grand Cru' of all (B) 1er Crus, 1971 being a great year (actually the first good (B) we had when we started our love affair some 18 years ago), and Clair-Dau being one of the most respectable Domaines of the 60s and early 70s, this bottle had all the markings of a great one. Still, I was quite anxious about having a 24-yrs (B) and thought about a backup bottle just in case...
COLOR: From deep red in the middle to medium-orange around the rim. Full-spectrum of hues glowing beautifully in the light. No doubt a fully mature wine, but very clear and bright. No dull or muddy color.
NOSE: No words will do justice to this symphony of delicate aromas. The most exquisite perfume dotted with lots of fresh(!) cherries, cinnamon, plums, leather - you name it. It is a good thing that there was only Dorit and myself. The noises that were made with every sniff... Even when I had a tiny amount in the (big balloon) glass, the nose was unbelievably enticing. I cannot remember ever getting so much pleasure from sniffing a wine.
TASTE: Though there was no doubt I had a mature (B) in my mouth, I would never have guessed this is a 24-yrs bottle. Full of delicious and harmonized tastes. The fruit still very much in vigor presence, yet the silkiness of the mature nectar made every sip an unprecedented experience. It was very difficult to hold onto the last drops. By the time the cheese plate arrived, there was nothing but a token few drops left in the glasses.
LENGTH: Never ending... At one point Dorit was in the kitchen for some time between the courses, she cried from there "I still have the taste in my mouth. It just won't let go".
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Fantastic balance, and structure. One can hardly analyze (and who wants to anyway?) the different elements of this 'fully integrated' wine. Still, not only good acidity and alcohol, but also a lot of flesh in complex layers. Massive 'legs' on the glass too.
OVERALL: Divine! The best wine I can remember. Dorit instructed me to go to any length in order to obtain more of the same. I cannot think of a better compliment. At the price, and even at double, this wine represents the ultimate (B).
MARK: 20/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.

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Copyright 1996-2003.
Jacob "Yak" Shaya.