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Clos St. Denis "VV" 1983 Dom. Ponsot

12/95. Bought in auction Oct-95 for $96 (imported from Chicago for $107 net).
Tonight with the cheese plate for the Friday night dinner. This bottle is one of only 900 bottles made by Ponsot in 1983 from his Clos St. Denis Grand Cru vineyard in the commune of Morey-St. Denis.
COLOR: Quite deep and full brick red. No gradual paling except for very near the rim.
NOSE: Superb cherries and strawberries aroma, engulfed by the most delicate and enticing 'Bourgogne Nose'.
TASTE: A bit of a let-down after the nose. Fresh and vigorous taste that have more punch than complexity or delicacy. A 'heavy-handed' taste that misses (IMHO) the point of a truly great (B).
LENGTH: Reasonably long and pleasant finish, but again - one dimensional.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Great structure with plenty of acidity, alcohol, soft tannins and even some fruit. What this wine lacks is 'flesh' or 'wininess'. Either dried out already, or not yet there, or (as I suspect) never been there and never will be.
OVERALL: An excellent wine if compared to the majority of 1983 (B). Still, not as concentrated as Ponsot '83 Clos de la Roche or as wholesome as Roumier's '83 Bonnes Mares or Mongeard-Mugneret '83 Grands Echezeaux.
MARK: 17/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? No.


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Jacob "Yak" Shaya.