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Tonight dinner for six at our wine-partners home. A marvelous dinner in superb
company.
Volnay - Clos des Chenes 1988 J. Drouhin
2/96. Acquired from Beaune June-94 for $29 (imported for $37 net).
COLOR: Pretty good full garnet red. No noticeable clearing except around the
rim.
NOSE: Good red fruit, straight-forward 'Bourgogne nose'. Very good and vibrant
aroma, though nothing overwhelming.
TASTE: Pleasantly delicate palate. Lightweight, 'easy' typical Volnay wine,
where concentration of flavors is not the trump suit. Tannins still prominent
(this is 1988 after all!), but not enough fruit or 'flesh' to leave a strong
impression. Went extremely well with the cheese pasta.
LENGTH: Nothing to write home about.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Light body, low-key wine. Very drinkable, especially with
food. Velvet texture in spite of the tannins. Could use more flesh even for
Volnay.
OVERALL: Very good wine in its own context. Don't expect a blockbuster or
complexity of flavors. Elegant, smooth and pleasant. Suffered a bit by
comparison to the Clos St. Denis that followed.
MARK: 16/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Maybe.
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