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Chablis - Les Clos..... Chambertin Clos de Beze.....


Dinner at Amihai and Daphna's, our wine partners.

Tomato cream soup in tarragon
Shrimps in cream sauce on a bed of aubergine & mushrooms
Veal chops with prunes
Cheese & forest fruits
Chocolate souffle

Chablis - Les Clos 1990 J. Drouhin

10/96. Acquired from Beaune June-94 for $27 (imported for $35 net).
Last tasted this Grand Cru Chablis from Drouhin's own domaine more than two years ago. At that time the wine was quite disappointing compared to the luscious 1989.
COLOR: Full golden color, translucent appearance.
NOSE: Superb nose of Chablis at its best. Apples, pears, minerals and honey. All in the 'clean' and appealing version of Chablis as opposed to the 'fat' wines of Meursault or the 'elegant' yet austere wines of Puligny-Montrachet. Extremely attractive and pleasing.
TASTE: Delicious. Much more open and yielding than two years ago. Powerful on the palate, rich in flavors with that hints of unsweet honey.
LENGTH: Not particularly long but very pleasing aftertaste.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Medium-full body. Almost completely open but not quite. Excellently balanced wine.
OVERALL: Superb now. Close to its peak now with a few good years ahead. Probably one of the best white wines in the world for the price.
MARK: 18/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.

Chambertin Clos de Beze 1983 J. Faiveley

10/96. Acquired in auction Dec-95 for $110 (imported from Chicago for $120 net).
Last tasted nine months ago. This Grand Cru from Faiveley own holdings in the prestigious vineyard disappointed me then, especially when compared to the same producer same vintage Mazis Chambertin at half the price.
COLOR: Dull medium ruby, about what you'd expect from a 13 years-old (B). Some clearing towards the rim, but no browning.
NOSE: Dominated by deep tones of earth and undergrowth, with hardly any discernible fruit. On the stinking side the of the 'Bourgogne Nose' without its delicate and enticing complexity...
TASTE: Quite concentrated but again, not much 'flesh' and winyness and too much sheer power and coarse flavors. A grand Cru on the palate no doubt, just not as good as some of the best 1983s (including, as mentioned before, Faiveley's own Mazis).
LENGTH: Short yet pleasant aftertaste.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Hefty body. Not 'off' in any sense, just lacking either fruity freshness or mature complexity. Good acidity tannins and alcohol gives the illusion of a well-balanced wine, but the shortness in 'wininess' is too apparent and distracting.
OVERALL: An excellent (B) if you never had a better Clos de Beze (or a better Faiveley for that matter).
MARK: 17/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? No.

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Copyright 1996-2003.
Jacob "Yak" Shaya.