Clos de la Roche "VV" 1992 Dom. Ponsot
11/96. Acquired directly from Ponsot's cellars May-96 for $40.
This is the first (last?) 1992 (B) I ever bought. Laurent Ponsot was
reluctant to sell us anything at all on our recent visit to his cellars. He
said the 1992 was the only vintage he has anything left from. As I am quite
partial to his Clos de la Roche and the price seemed ridiculously cheap for
his wines, I bought 3 bottles for less than I usually pay for one... He also
said the wine is to be tasted soon, while waiting for the older and better
vintages to mature.
Need I say that this is by far the youngest Grand Vin de (B) I ever tasted?
COLOR: Palish brick-red, noticeable clearing towards the rim. Hardly
impressive, even for (B).
NOSE: For more than an hour after opening, the dominant aroma was that of
stench! We were not sure whether this resulted from an overdose of sulphite
added to the wine or that rot crept into the vines that were used... That
stench was not the only component we could detect. There was some fresh cassis
and other berries plus a faint reminder of a nice 'Bourgogne Nose', but all
that was deeply buried that dominant stench. After an hour or so most of this
unpleasant smell went away, but at that time most of the good aroma
components weakened too.
TASTE: In contrast to the nose, on the palate the noble vineyard was
immediately recognizable. Though the least concentrated Clos de la Roche I
ever tasted, the complexity of flavors was there all right. A bit "diluted",
a bit too acidic, but nevertheless a Grand Cru no doubt. Went perfectly with
assortment of hot appetizers.
LENGTH: Almost no aftertaste at all except for the sourish tinge of the
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Medium bodied, weak tannins, reasonable fruit, a lot of
acidity, too short on 'wininess'.
OVERALL: A very good wine from a very weak vintage. I know many winemakers
try to compensate for such weak vintages by extra effort in their cellar
work. Domaine Ponsot is of the opinion that the winemaker should do his
utmost not to intervene with the vintage characteristics. Well, for better or
worse, they were true to their philosophy here...
MARK: 17/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? No(*).
(*) For a $40 this is a good buy. However, I suspect the market price of this wine is much
higher - hence the "No".
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Jacob "Yak" Shaya.