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Riesling "Grasberg"..... Meursault - Les Charmes..... Volnay - "60 Ouverees".....


Very nice dinner for six at our home. Everything (as usual) was deliciously prepared by Dorit.

Shrimp Bisque
Fondue Bourguignon with six great sauces
Cheese Plate
Coffee and "Leonidas"

Close friends, cosy atmosphere, great food and wine - all helped to get over the terrorist bomb that exploded a few hours earlier not far from our home.

Riesling "Grasberg" 1992 Marcel Deiss

3/97. Acquired in London Feb-96 for $20 (imported for $29 net).
COLOR: Vary pale, almost devoid of color. Not really fizzy, but some tiny bubbles appear attached to the inside of the glass.
NOSE: Good if not immense. Simple Riesling fruit with very faint petrol tones.
TASTE: Pleasant and light on the palate. Not completely dry as I like Alsatian wines, but not obstructively sweet.
LENGTH: Nothing to write home about.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Light bodied, demi-sec. Fresh fruit, weak acidity and low alcohol. A minor-key pleasant wine.
OVERALL: Quite nice as an aperitif, but a far cry from a real good (A) Riesling. Not for long aging.
MARK: 16/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? No.

Meursault - Les Charmes 1990 Michelot-Buisson

3/97. Acquired in London Feb-96 for $42 (imported for $55 net).
COLOR: Immensely deep and impressive golden yellow. Extremely viscous appearance.
NOSE: Beautiful, elegant and delicate. Pure white-(B) nose with little wood to mask it. Apples and pears, minerals and a touch of honeysuckle. Still fresh aroma with some mature elements that add complexity to the bouquet.
TASTE: Even more impressive than the nose. Mouthfilling, rich and buttery fat. A hint of toasted almonds together with white tree-fruit. Superb enticing taste in all respects. Almost chewable!
LENGTH: Multi-layered never-ending aftertaste.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Full fledged Meursault. Fat, chewy, plenty of winyness. Ample fruit, good (though not excellent) acidity and plenty of body and alcohol.
OVERALL: Superb++! The epitome of a Meursault 1er Cru. Probably at or around its peak now.
MARK: 18+/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.

Volnay - Caillerets "60 Ouvrees" 1990 Pousse d'Or

3/97. Acquired from the US, Oct-96 for $45 (imported from Chicago for $71 net).
This monopole sub-plot of 'Les Caillerets' 1er Cru vineyard is (together with "Clos de la Bousse d'Or") the jewel in the crown of the excellent Domaine de la Pousse d'Or in Volnay.
COLOR: Relatively dark red as befitting the 1990 concentrated vintage.
NOSE: Absolutely extraordinary! Full, rich, evolved yet full of red forest-fruit. The most beautiful 'Bourgogne Nose' makes sniffing this wine a pleasure beyond description. Aroma and bouquet more of a Grand Cru Cote de Nuits than a 1er Cru Cote de Beaune. As far as the nose is concerned this wine is at its peak, and a very high peak it is...
TASTE: Excellent. Velvety smooth and elegant. Much more 'Volnay' in character than the nose. Vivid fruit and good acidity make it fresh and tasty on the palate. A bit lower-keyed than the nose, but a true manifestation of a great Volnay from a great vintage.
LENGTH: Medium long but very pleasant aftertaste.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Medium-weight, silky wine. Good fruit, acidity, soft tannins and winyness. Superb balance.
OVERALL: Superb! About as good as a Volnay can get. Needs perhaps another year or two for the taste to open as the nose is.
MARK: 18/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.

Reach Me? yak@yakshaya.com

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Jacob "Yak" Shaya.