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Corton Charlemagne..... Nuits - Clos des Argilleres.....


Friday night dinner for seven people at our home.

Large and varied selection of homemade sushi
Baby-calf, rich saffron and garlic sauce. Dauphine potatoes, chinese peas
Cheese assortment
Creme Brulee in individual small plates

Sake and beer accompanied the sushi as no wine (at least not the kind I drink) would stand up to the wassabi, soy and ginger... We had the Corton Charlemagne with the main course and the 'Clos des Argilleres' with the cheese.

Corton Charlemagne 1992 Thomas-Moillard

4/97. Acquired from France Dec-94 for $32 (imported from Nuits for $43 net).
The wine was made by Moillard from his own plot of this Grand Cru white (B).
COLOR: Medium straw yellow.
NOSE: Good and rich though not explosive nose. Excellent bouquet of minerals, pears, apples with pronounced oily tones.
TASTE: Very rich and full of flavors. A bit 'thick' on the palate because of the relative lack of acidity. Lacks the steely 'wet stone' feel of a great Corton Charlemagne.
LENGTH: Moderately long aftertaste of no special distinction.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Weighty and complex. Noticeable wood with a lot of heavy and dense flavors. Not particularly fruity and definitely lacks in acidity for good balance.
OVERALL: Very good wine, especially for the price. But a far cry from a truly great Corton Charlemagne.
MARK: 16+/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.

Nuits - Clos des Argilleres 1985 D. Rion

4/97. Acquired in auction Apr-96 for $52 (imported from Chicago for $64 net).
The 1er Cru vineyard of Argilleres is probably the best wine made by the superb yet unpretentious domaine of Daniel Rion. I had this wine some six months ago and enjoyed it tremendously.
COLOR: Still good looking ruby-red. Obviously unfiltered as the sediment at the bottom of the bottle was pretty substantial.
NOSE: Big change from last bottle. Dominant harsh and brute 'Bourgogne Nose' masks almost all the other bouquet elements. Quite distracting and disappointing. I've witnessed some '85 (B) bottles that just faded away or simply lost their aromatic appeal, but I've never tasted a wine whose 'Bourgogne Nose' turned from delicate and enticing into something on the verge of repulsive in just six months...
TASTE: At least here things didn't go as bad as with the nose. Still full of flavors, showing good fruit and the complexity associated with a fine mature (B).
LENGTH: Relatively long and pleasant aftertaste.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Medium-full bodied. Relatively well balanced though a tiny bit over acidic and under-fruited.
OVERALL: Excellent wine though a notch and a half below the performance of its brother bottle just six months ago...
MARK: 17/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Maybe.

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Jacob "Yak" Shaya.