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Criots-Batard-Montrachet..... Clos de Vougeot..... Corton, Bressandes.....


Friday night dinner for six at a fantastic, relatively new, Tel-Aviv restaurant.
We brought our own wines and paid token corkage fees. We drank the white wine first and then the two reds side by side.
The food, service, decor and the lively ambiance - augmented by the good wines - all led to a delightfully enjoyable evening.

Shrimps, wrapped in basil leaf and crispy pastry. Deep fried and served with sweet & hot sauce. Divine!
Tender goose liver chunks on skewers, served in sweet soy sauce with plums.
Mussels in fish-stock sauce with tarragon. Melting in the mouth!
Marinated foie-gras on brioche
Fillet mignon and goose liver on a bed of pears-puree
Grilled jumbo shrimps on rice
Entrecote steak
Assorted sushi and sashimi

Criots Batard Montrachet 1990 L. Jadot

7/98. Acquired from Beaune for $69 in June-94 (imported for $92 net).
Criots Batard Montrachet, one of the satellite Grand Cru of Montrachet is the only Grand Cru vineyard solely within the boundaries of Chassagne-Montrachet.
COLOR: Seemed to be medium-full yellow but hard to tell at the dim lights of the restaurant.
NOSE: Very clean nose of wet stones and white-fruits like pears and apples together with flowery scents. Judicious use of non-masking wood. Mildly subdued but very pleasant nose.
TASTE: Nothing subdued about the taste! Mouthfilling, complex and multi-layered. Mature fruit, minerals, good acidity, luscious fatness with a touch of honey at the finish.
LENGTH: Extremely long sweetish aftertaste to this bone-dry wine.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Full bodied and fat. Beautifully concentrated, clean and rounded. Superbly balanced too.
OVERALL: Superb! Elegant and full of presence. At or near its peak now.
MARK: 18/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.

Clos de Vougeot "VV" 1988 Chateau de Latour

7/98. Oded Lerer brought this wine. It cost him about $70.
My first taste from this famous domaine, the largest owner in the Clos de Vougeot. The two elderly sisters operate from the funny-looking chateau half-way down the slope of the vineyard. Since the mid 80s they are known to be disciples of Guy Accad's methods of cold maceration.
COLOR: Quite dark for a (B) wine, even when making allowance for the dim lights.
NOSE: Somewhat reserved at first, but beautifully balanced between somber fruit, soft wood, chocolate tones and a restraint version of 'Bourgogne Nose'. In time the nose opened up a bit but never became completely forward. Quite noble and perfectly balanced (nose!).
TASTE: Complex and elegant. Again, not so much outwardly rich but soft, multi-flavored and velvety on the palate in spite of the ripe tannins. Excellent, sure-handed feel with obvious breed. Nothing I tasted here suggested Guy Accad though...
LENGTH: Medium long but extremely well-balanced aftertaste.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Medium-bodied and typical 1988 in its structure and reservedness. More delicate than I'd expected and beautifully balanced though in minor terms.
OVERALL: Excellent-plus now, but let there be no mistake here, the constitution of this wine - both on the nose and on the palate - makes it a sure bet that it'll develop and open up further in years to come.
MARK: 17.5/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.

Corton 'Bressandes' 1990 J. Drouhin

7/98. Acquired from Beaune June-94 for $39 (imported for $52 net).
This plot in Corton 'Bressandes' belongs to the Domaine Drouhin. i.e they are not acting as negociants here but rather as owners.
COLOR: As dark as the Clos de Vougeot, though a thin clearing around the rim was discernible.
NOSE: Very pronounced and forward 'Bourgogne Nose' with some simple fruit. A bit vulgar without much complexity or refinement.
TASTE: An all-out forward taste but again, nothing deep. Plenty of fruit and lots of acidity, very little tannins and only moderate winyness. Not that the wine is not tasty, but a 1990 'Grand Cru' should have more stuffing.
LENGTH: Medium length, aftertaste dominated by acidity.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Medium-bodied. Does not lack in fruit, but quite coarse, inelegant with little winyness to counter the (B) elements and the acidity.
OVERALL: Very good but not more. Unlike the Clos de Vougeot, this wine shows all that it has - only it ain't much.
MARK: 16/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Maybe.

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Jacob "Yak" Shaya.