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Bienvenues Batard Montrachet..... Ch. Margaux..... Clos de la Roche.....


14-Feb-99

A special dinner at our home for special friends, Ossi and Paul Burger from London that came for a rare visit together.

Shrimp Bisque
1992 Bienvenues Batard Montrachet, Dom. Leflaive
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Truffled Cheese Tarte
1983 Chateau Margaux
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Herb-coated Fillets Mignons in Pinot-Noir sauce, Roquefort-Potatoes Pancakes
1983 Clos de la Roche, Ponsot
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Souffle Grand Marnier
Tea and coffee


The exquisite food, the the fantastic wines (the four of us did justice to three great bottles!) and the rare opportunity to be with Ossi and Paul made us all enjoy an extraordinary evening.

Bienvenues Batard Montrachet 1992 Dom. Leflaive

2/99. Acquired in auction Jan-97 for $140 (imported for $163 net).
Surely among the best white wines of the world, Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet is is one of the best things to come out of the fabled stable of Domaine Leflaive.
COLOR: Medium-deep straw, looking clear and fresh.
NOSE: Thrilling nose of flowers minerals northern fruits and a touch of honey. Fine, elegant and harmonious aromas. Concentrated though not excessively so. Some wood gives nice backdrop to the other aromatic elements.
TASTE: On the palate, a wonderful combination of great stuffing, breed and elegance. Not a hefty wine but exquisitely tasty and complex. Went extremely well with the delicate yet flavorful shrimps bisque.
LENGTH: Surprisingly long and (not surprisingly) pleasant finish.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Medium-bodied full-textured wine. Crisp yet yielding, superbly crafted and very well balanced.
OVERALL: Superb-plus! Though less of a blockbuster than Batard Montrachet, this is a truly Grand Cru white. A point now.
MARK: 18.5/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Maybe.


Chateau Margaux 1983 Margaux

2/99. Acquired in auction May-96 for $130 (imported for $146 net).
Considered among the very best if not the best of the 1983 Bordeaux vintage. I've had the wine twice in the past and even a non-Bordeaux guy like me was duly impressed by its captivating qualities.
Though I decanted the wine more than an hour before we got to it, it started out a bit closed but opened up considerably in the glass.
COLOR: Very dark ruby red with plenty of 'legs' on the glass. Not much evidence there that this is a sixteen years old wine...
NOSE: Deep, rich and very concentrated. Dark forest fruits as well as flowery aromas. Wood is apparent though not overpowering. Though the nose is highly expressive, it still holds something in reserve. I can only imagine the nose when it will become completely forward...
TASTE: Multi-flavored and flamboyantly rich. Superb fruit, plenty of 'winyness' and fantastic grip. Elegant yet tough backbone beneath. Noticeable though not harsh tannins. A great match to the wonderful truffled tarte Dorit made from four different cheese.
LENGTH: Never ending aftertaste that continues to reveal layer upon layer of ripe flavors.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Full-bodied and powerful wine. Awe inspiring depth, very well balanced, tasty yet somewhat un-yielding. Will probably take some 5 more years to finally yield all that it has.
OVERALL: Extraordinary!! About the best Bordeaux I ever tasted (which doesn't say much...).
MARK: 19/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.


Clos de la Roche 1983 Dom. Ponsot

2/99. Acquired at auction Feb-97 for $154 (imported for $165 net).
I've been drinking this wine for the last four years. There are not many (non-Israeli) wines from which I've had more than 2-3 bottles. This here was my last and 7th bottle of the wonderful 1983 CdlR Vieilles Vignes by Ponsot.
COLOR: Medium brick-red, some clearing around the rim. Plenty of sediment at the bottom.
NOSE: Deep enticing nose of pronounced fresh berries [and this is a 16-years (B)!!] together with ripe sweetish plums, game, wet forest floor and a beautiful 'Bourgogne Nose' to put everything in perspective.
TASTE: How many time can I say "mouthfilling" of a great (B) without it sounding repetitive? Well, mouthfilling, multi-dimensional exotic wine that interacts with each and every taste bud in your mouth. Mature fruit, plenty of 'winyness', extraordinary grip with receding tannins and fresh acidity.
LENGTH: Lingering and vibrating finish that continues to sing for a long long time...
TEXTURE & BALANCE: A huge wine [in (B) terms] wearing delicate gloves. Well endowed in every department, yet fragrant harmonious and superbly balanced.
OVERALL: Extraordinary-plus!! A true Grand Vin de Bourgogne. One of the very best wines I've ever had. At its peak.
MARK: 19.5/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.


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Jacob "Yak" Shaya.