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Gevrey 'Cazetiers'..... Beaucastel.....


Although my recovery is not a straight path forward, I have had my first taste of wine (since I was hospitalized) when our good friends Eli and Gilli came to visit us last Friday. Even my doctor said I am allowed to 'sin' every now and then...
An 'unofficial' dinner of Spanish jamon, meat carpaccio, spaghetti carbonara and fresh fruit salad were accompanied by two very different wines.
I had only one glass of each wine, but one is better than none, right? :)
Gevrey-Chambertin 'Les Cazetiers' 1990 C. Serafin

6/2000. Acquired from London, Feb-96 for $41.
Perhaps not a 'superstar' producer, but I have not yet encountered a wine by Christian Serafin that was not at least very good. A good, reliable producer that lets the terroir, rather than winemaking techniques, speak.
As for the vineyard, I hold 'Cazetiers' to be the second best Premier Cru (after Clos St. Jacques) in Gevrey-Chambertin.
COLOR: Medium dark ruby, no apparent sediment and only slightly clearing around the rim.
NOSE: Wonderful aromas of cassis and semi-mature red forest-fruit plus a pure essence of 'Bourgogne Nose'. Stylish complex nose that is full of presence. Light touch of wood than blends well.
TASTE: Very tasty and mouth-filling though a touch less deep than the nose. The fruit still feels young and charming on a fine backbone of soft tannins and measured acidity. A pleasure to drink.
LENGTH: Medium length with pleasant aftertaste.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Medium-full body. Very Gevrey in its texture and constitution. Nicely concentrated and multi-dimensional but not a giant wine. Very well balanced too.
OVERALL: A fine example of a top-level 1er Cru from a great vintage by a good producer.
MARK: 17.5/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.

CdP 'Chateau de Beaucastel' 1981 Perrin

6/2000. Bought at auction Dec-99 for $130.
For me at lest, there are no better Chateauneuf du Pape than 'Beaucastel'. I have never tasted a 19 year-old bottle, so was anxious and curious to see how this old bean would fare.
COLOR: Still almost jet black, though some reddish hues add beauty to the color. Huge amount of sediment in the bottle.
NOSE: Immense! The epitome of complexity that can only come from a melange of so many grape varietals. Forward mature and complex fruit, tons of spices, that (wonderful!) 'barnyard' bouquet - all coming out of the glass in full thrust. One could just sniff this wine for hours on end.
TASTE: Big mistake if one were to only sniff this wine... :) As deep and multi-layered as the 1989 only with an added smoothness and harmony to be found only in heaven. This wine develops and changes in the mouth continuously. From the initial 'attack', to the 'mid palate', to the 'finish'. So rich, complex and concentrated - almost unbelievable.
LENGTH: Simply never ending. Not only is the aftertaste long, it is almost as powerful as when the wine is still in the mouth.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: A full bodied, super complex, deep and concentrated wine. So multi-dimensional yet smooth and velvety. Diverse fruit, great winyness, receding tannins and balancing acidity are all there. At this age the wine has reached its peak of harmony and will be calmly moving along this plateau for a few more years.
OVERALL: Outstanding!! Maybe even a tad better... A truly great wine.
MARK: 19/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? yes.

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Jacob "Yak" Shaya.