6/00. Received from Christophe Roumier at the winery, April-96.
Bonnes Mares is perhaps my favorite (B) Grand Cru. It usually displays the depth, complexity and vitality of Gevrey and Morey together with the smoothness and charm of Chambolle. The 1983 rendition from Roumier was among the best I ever had, so I was curious to see how the once-maligned-but-now-regaining-respect 1991 vintage will fare.
Since I am allowed only limited quantities of wine, we only drank half of the bottle on the first evening. We VaccuVined it and finished the rest the next day.
COLOR: Not particularly impressive. Medium brownish-red with notable clearing around the rim. Small amount of sediment at the bottom.
NOSE: Simply marvelous! So broad and deep with everything in it and then some. Semi-ripe fruit, moist forest-floor, mushrooms, chocolate and some oak notes. All that wrapped in a beautiful and clean 'Bourgogne Nose'. Among the very best nose I have experienced in a long time.
TASTE: Concentrated with excellent winyness. Tannins are tough and very noticeable. But where is the fruit? A bit disappointing after the wonderful nose. Did I open this bottle a few years too early? Is the fruit hiding behind the tannins or it is not there at all? Well, the mystery was solved when we had the second half of the bottle 24 hours later. What were hard ungainly tannins became soft and smooth. The nonexistent fruit was now all over the palate! A most delicious nectar.
LENGTH: Long and complex aftertaste (though a bit tannic on the first night).
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Medium body, very good concentration with excellent structure. Obviously too young at this point [unless you leave half of the bottle for the next day...]
OVERALL: Superb when the tannins are soft enough to let the wonderful fruit and smoothness shine.

MARK: 18.5/20.

BUY MORE? Yes.

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Copyright 1996-2003.
Jacob "Yak" Shaya.