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Pinot Gris 'Clos St. Urbain'..... Batard Montrachet.....

28-Jul-2000

The first Chez Nous after my illness(*) with our old friends and wine partners Amihai and Dafna. This time at their home. The ingredients didn't really call for red wines, so we had two fantastic - though completely different - whites to accompany the absolutely delicious dinner Dafna prepared.
As always - a wonderful, tasty and pleasurable evening.

"Chef surprise"
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Goose liver with caramelized apples
1995 Pinot Gris - Rangen de Than 'Clos St. Urbain', Zind-Humbrecht
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Sea-food pasta in tomato and white wine sauce
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Fillet of Grouper in marmalade of red peppers and crab sauce
1995 Batard Montrachet, E. Sauzet
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Vanilla ice-cream in espresso sauce

(*) To those who care - you can look up my homepage (www.yakshaya.com) for a brief health 'bulletin'.

Pinot Gris 'Clos St. Urbain' 1995 Zind-Humbrecht

7/00. Bought in auction July-99 for $75.
Over the last few years I find myself buying and tasting more and more of Zind-Humbrecht wines. Though I love the dry-yet-fruity classical Alsatian style (a la Hugel or Trimbach), I find it impossible to resist the rich-textured and flamboyant wines of Zind-Humbrecht.
I have had this specific 1995 'Clos St. Urbain' Pinot Gris three or four times in the past. Not a SGN and not even Vendange Tardive, this wine is - IMHO - the ultimate expression of the full and opulent style of Zind-Humbrecht.
COLOR: Deep full and brilliantly golden color.
NOSE: Simply unbelievable! Profound, rich concoction of white fruits, wild flowers and a touch of honey, that is so deep and concentrated one cannot stop sniffing. Full, expensive aromas burst out of the glass, yet even the myriad of smells are well balanced and stylish.
TASTE: Multi-dimensional concentration of balanced gamut of flavors. Outreaching honeyed touch that feels rich yet never cloying. Superbly balanced by refreshing acidity. A pure nectar.
LENGTH: Infinite.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Full bodied, thickly-textured rich and expensive. A voluptuous white wine if there ever was one. Not dry at all, yet so well balanced by acidity that it just feels mouthfilling rather than sweet.
OVERALL: Extraordinary!! The best example of a rich-style full-fledged Alsace.
MARK: 19.5/20.BUY MORE? Yes.


Batard Montrachet 1995 E. Sauzet

7/00. Bought in auction July-97 for $150.
Batard Montrachet, what an evocative name. One of the three (together with Montrachet and Chevalier Montrachet) greatest white wines in the world.
So different in every respect from the Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris, yet equally thrilling and satisfying.
COLOR: Medium straw color with a tinge of greenish appearance.
NOSE: Classic, stylish and deeply concentrated nose of minerals, apples and pears, and that high-class 'steel' or 'wet stone' feel I associate with the top wines of Puligny-Montrachet. Very well developed for such a young Batard.
TASTE: Bone dry multi-flavored 'big' wine that expresses both fruit and minerals in a profound yet restrained way. Mouthfilling and tasty, beautifully delineated and focused with fantastic grip. At this point in time it is somewhat less open and forward on the palate than it is on the nose, but that does not distract one bit from the pleasure it gives.
LENGTH: Extremely long aftertaste that still has a touch of youthful tartness.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: A full-bodied big serious and totally impressive wine. Everything, from the first sniff to the long finish conveys the high breed and the wonderful terroir of this classic Chardonnay.
OVERALL: Outstanding! A superbly noble and well made wine of majestic proportions.
MARK: 19/20.BUY MORE? Yes.


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Jacob "Yak" Shaya.