|Domaine de Trevallon
12/01. Acquired from France, July-01 for $70.
In all honesty, I don't think I am the most open-minded guy where wine loyalties are concerned. I am a Burgundy man, and everyone knows that. I also love great Rhones, and in general am not great admirer of Bordeaux though I can appreciate the quality of the best ones there. But Provence? Midi, the south of France? Who would want to drink this stuff?
Well, about a year ago I read in Clive Coates' "The Vine" magazine an article about this outstanding wine called Domaine de Trevallon produced by an uncompromising individual named Eloi Durrbach. A Vin de Pays because the winemaker wouldn't succumb to the decrees of the Appellation Controlee that dictate permissible varietals, because he thinks his poor soil is more suited for other grapes. A wine Coats [who, in his civilized British understatement, never uses terms like 'awesome', 'stupendous', etc. like you know who] really waxed poetic about.
A (more or less) 50%-50% combination of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon wine made around Avignon(!), a wine described as "...one of the greatest and most individual wines...", a wine (and especially the 1990 vintage) that is said to be only hinted at by the best Mas de Daummas, Cornas or Domain Tempier - All this made me curious enough to start looking for it. It wasn't easy but eventually I got hold of three bottles.
COLOR: Quite dark though not as dark as some Rhone wines can get. Plenty of sediment in this 11 years old wine.
NOSE: Absolutely amazing! Like no other wine I (or any of the other five people fortunate enough to taste it with me) ever sniffed at. Red and black fruit intermingled with raw meat, spice and something else. Could it be corn?... A slight soft funkiness soon made room for a super-harmonious ripe and enticing nose.
TASTE: If the nose is amazing , on the palate this wine is simply unbelievable. So much expression of depth and flavors. Concentrated and rich without being a blockbuster. Winey and multi-dimensional without losing its focus or grip. A sauvage, untamed wine that is so delicious and graceful.
LENGTH: Extremely long and concentrated aftertaste that lingers.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Medium-full body. Wonderfully vigorous and concentrated. Thickly textured with plenty of fruit and other complex flavors. Round tannins and light acidity add to the perfect balance. Delicious now but will hold and develop for years to come.
OVERALL: Extraordinary!! A true revelation that I wholeheartedly recommend for every one to try.
|MARK: 19.5/20.||BUY MORE? Yes.|
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Jacob "Yak" Shaya.