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Mormoreto..... Mastrojanni, Brunello..... Barolo 'Bric del Fiasc'..... I Capitelli.....


We were invited over to our good friends Eli & Gilly for Friday night dinner. Also invited were Eli Ben-Zaken - the best Israeli winemaker - and his lovely wife Monique.
Gilly prepared a lavish and delicious four course dinner, and Eli provided the all-Italian wines to accompany it.
The food, wines, company and atmosphere were all superb. A wonderful evening!

Four small baskets of Filo, each filled with different vegetable and Italian cheese
1990 Mormoreto, Frescobaldi
Homemade Fettuccine with Porcini, Morilles and Truffles
1990 Brunello di Montalcine, Mastrojanni
Lamb stew Mediterranean style
1990 Barolo 'Bric del Fiasc', P. Scavino
Almonds Mascarpone
1996 Recioto di Soave 'I Capitelli', Anselmi

Mormoreto 1990 Frescobaldi

A Bordeaux-type blend (mostly Cabernet Sauvignon) from a single vineyard in Castelo di Nipozzano, Tuscany. The wine is only produced in good years and in small quantities. It is aged for two years in French oak.
COLOR: Deep ruby red. Slight clearing around the rim.
NOSE: Noticeable Cabernet elements that are 'rounder' than what a New-World wine would be. Wood is there, but not over-powering. Very pleasant and harmonious.
TASTE: On the palate the wine is full, supple and tasty. Fruit is there as well as other, more subtle, flavors. Good concentration and winyness. Not super deep, but very satisfying.
LENGTH: Long and pleasant aftertaste.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Medium-full bodied wine of fine structure and backbone. Very soft tannins and good acidity add to the perfect balance.
OVERALL: Very Fine. A stylish wine that is drinking perfectly now.
MARK: 18/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.

Brunello del Montalcino 1990 Mastrojanni

The memories of an outstanding bottle of this wine we had in Toscana more than two years ago filled me with excitement when we opened this bottle. Alas...
COLOR: Medium ruby, slightly brownish. Noticeable clearing towards the rim.
NOSE: Somewhat cooked nose with more than a hint of Madeira. Still a fine and complex, but obviously past its peak.
TASTE: Still tasty and multi-flavored but definitely past its prime. Again, very drinkable and enjoyable, but a far cry from what this wine could be.
LENGTH: Medium long but a bit coarse aftertaste.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Medium bodied wine that had seen better times.
OVERALL: Good. This bottle must have been kept under less-than-optimal conditions before Eli got to it.
MARK: 16/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? No.

Barolo 'Bric del Fiasc' 1990 P. Scavino

A single-vineyard Barolo from an excellent vintage. Made by Enrico Scavino, one of the more 'modernists' of the top Barolo producers.
COLOR: Dark ruby with no clearing around the rim.
NOSE: Elegant nose of red forest fruit. A touch of slightly smoked wood add to the harmony of the deep and complex nose.
TASTE: Serious wine in every department. Rich, mouthfilling, multi-dimensional, winey and really tasty. Perfect acidity and round soft tannins add to the total palate experience.
LENGTH: Very very long and reverberating aftertaste.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Full bodied Barolo that is not only perfectly balanced, but is completely ready to enjoy.
OVERALL: Superb. A really fine example of an early-maturing Barolo.
MARK: 18.5/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.

Recioto di Soave 'I Capitelli' 1996 Anselmi

Dessert wine from Veneto made from the Garganega grapes. The grapes are left to dry in well-ventilated rooms in the winery till they catch some botrytis.
COLOR: Dull amber-yellow color. Looks viscous and rich.
NOSE: Complex and elegant bouquet, with floral aromas as well as mature oranges and a touch of honey.
TASTE: Sweet and somewhat heavy on the palate, yet very tasty. Full, round and persistent flavors with really fine structure. A bit lacking in acidity though.
LENGTH: Long, persistent an clean aftertaste.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Medium-bodied and very viscous wine. Good structure though could have more acidity for balance.
OVERALL: Very Fine. A dessert wine with its own message. Quite different from French or German counterparts.
MARK: 18/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? yes.

Reach Me? yak@yakshaya.com

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Copyright 1996-2003.
Jacob "Yak" Shaya.