19-Sep-2004
It has really been a long time since I wrote anything on my site. Why? 'Material Fatigue' after 7-8 years of writing up almost every wine I tasted. The fact that most of what I currently drink I already wrote about. Sheer laziness. All contribute to this neglect.
An almost impromptu dinner and wines for wonderful guests at our home drove me to break the silence.
Josh Latner and his lovely wife Kendal. Beautiful people with zest and appreciation for the finer things in life on a rare visit to Israel.
I have known Josh "virtually" for about five years now. We e-mailed and talked on the phone but never had the opportunity to meet. Their short visit to Israel provided the opportunity to amend that.
Dorit prepared a super tasty dinner. The wines were good, the atmosphere relaxed and convivial. And in spite of our guest being exhausted from their hectic short visit to Israel I hope they enjoyed the evening as much as we did.
Beef carpaccio with Pecorino balsamico and figs
1995 Barolo 'Cascina Francia', G. Conterno
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Confi of goose in dry fruits, dry tomatoes and herbs with boiled & baked potatoes
1994 Chateauneuf du Pape 'Hommage a Jacques Perrin', Perrin
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Mango and meringue in whipped cream
| Barolo 'Cascina Francia' |
1995 |
G. Conterno |
9/2004. Acquired from New York May-99 for $85.
A couple of years ago I have tasted six or seven different 1995 Barolos, all from reputable producers. To be perfectly honest, none was anything to write home about. Most were harsh and four-squared.
When I showed an Italian friend of mine - a real expert in Italian wines - my list of 1995 Barolos, he said it doesn't matter what you do with the other ones, but to keep the Conterno for another year or two. And so I did.
COLOR: Pretty dark and deep blackish-red. Hardly any clearing, some sediment at the bottom.
NOSE: Terrific nose of black fruit spices and some wood tones. Fresh Nebbiolo aroma engulfed by soft sweet vanilla and licorices elements. Deep and penetrating. Really fine nose.
TASTE: A real pleasure on the palate. Rich, fruity and multi-layered flavors. Excellent winyness. Concentrated but not overly so. Nothing harsh or angular about this wine. Young and vigorous yet perfectly enjoyable at this stage.
LENGTH: Medium-long and reverberating aftertaste.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: Full bodied, well proportioned wine that is beautifully crafted. Perfectly balanced with at least 10 years of potential aging in store.
OVERALL: Superb. By far the best 1995 Barolo I have had. Though perfectly enjoyable now, will probably improve and reach even higher spheres with more aging.
MARK: 18.5/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Yes.
| CdP 'Hommage a Jacques Perrin' |
1994 |
Perrin |
9/2004. Acquired from France, Jun-01 for $123.
The 'Hommage a Jacques Perrin' is the flagship cuvee of Perrin Chateauneuf du Pape. Made from almost 90 years old vines and produced only in the best vintages for Mourvedre, the predominant (70%) grape. Grenache, Syrah and Counoise also take part in the blend. Only about 300 cases are made of this wine [when it is made].
COLOR: Medium dark ruby. Slight clearing around the rim. Noticeable sediment.
NOSE: Profound, deep, complex and spicy aromas. Would have been grandiose if not for a somewhat disturbing stench that, in spite of fading a bit with time, was persistent enough to distract from an otherwise really fantastic nose.
TASTE: Mouthfilling and smooth with red and black ripe fruit flavors. Complex, rich, almost sweetish. Really concentrated and winey, with soft tannins and good structure. But the annoying odd element crept into the palate as well. Joshua suggested it was volatile acidity. Whatever it was, it did distract from the pleasure.
LENGTH: Very long aftertaste that is marred by the 'flaw'.
TEXTURE & BALANCE: A well-endowed full-bodied wine. Big, full, concentrated and rich, with a broad spectrum of layers and flavors. I am absolutely sure that bottles that do not have that smelly/acidic 'extra' will be perfectly balanced.
OVERALL: Very Good (only!). A monumental and extremely interesting wine in spite of its flaw. A 'clean' bottle would easily score 19 or more...
MARK: 18/20.aaaaaaaaBUY MORE? Maybe.
Reach Me? 
yak@yakshaya.com
Copyright 1996-2004.
Jacob "Yak" Shaya.