Burgundy Primer - Cote de Beaune by Yak Shaya

The Cote de Beaune

by Yak Shaya
The Cote de Beaune, a natural continuation of the Cote de Nuits, comprises the southern part of the Cote d'Or. About 16 miles in length, the Cote de Beaune has only one red Grand Cru (see below) within its limits. However here are be found, without doubt, the very best dry white wines in the world! The red wines of the CdB are, by and large, rounder, more supple and less robust than those of the Cote de Nuits.

Aloxe-Corton

The first 'meaningful' commune of the Cote de Beaune. Both red and white wine produced from vineyards planted all over the beautiful hill of Corton. There are Village wines and Premier Crus, but no doubt the name of Aloxe (pronounced 'Alosse' locally) is usually associated with the two Grand Cru wines, the red Corton and the white Corton-Charlemagne. (I hope the purists will forgive me for speaking of Corton-Charlemagne as belonging solely to Aloxe-Corton. Strictly speaking, the appellation spans over three communes: Aloxe-Corton, Ladoix-Serrigny and Pernand-Vergelesses).

VILLAGE WINE
About 40000 cases. Almost entirely red wine. Deep color and solid, even rough, fruit. Best 6-10 years after the vintage.

PREMIER CRU
About 18000 cases. Mostly red. They are more intense, have more finesse and last longer than the straight Aloxe-Corton. They do not rival however the Corton Grand Crus. The more popular (though still not common) are Les Valozieres, Les Fournieres, Les Marechaudes and Les Paulands. Best 7-14 years after the vintage.

GRAND CRUS
Corton: About 30000 cases. The Cortons family of Grands Crus is different in two respects from other Grand Cru wines in the Cote d'Or. First, the enormity of the appellation (in Bourgogne terms) - more than twice than Clos de Vougeot - leads to big difference in style and quality. Most of the Cortons are not really on Grand Cru level, though all are entitled to the appellation. The second difference is that each plot of the huge Corton vineyard is permitted to append its name to the Corton on the label. Thus we have Corton, Le Corton, Corton, Clos du Roi, Corton, Les Bressandes, Corton, Les Renardes, etc. There about 22 'Cortons', all officially Grand Crus, but only the above mentioned, plus perhaps Corton, Pougets and the Louis Latour's brand-name Corton, Ch. Grancey deserve the distinction. Of all the Cote de Beaune reds, the Cortons are (not surprisingly) the most powerful and meaty. They seem to combine the splendid structure of the Cote de Nuits with the supple elegance of the Cote de Beaune. They take long time to mature, and on no account should be drank before they are 10 years old.

Corton-Charlemagne: About 13000 cases. No doubt one of the greatest white wines in existance. Typically rich and nutty, the best examples show grandiose structure and extraordinary long life. The fruit, almonds, cinnamon, honey and oak are all present in the bouquet, while the rich acidity and alcohol give the feeling of flint or steel on the palate. Some growers' Corton-Charlemagne outlive their red Corton. Corton-Charlemagne is my personal favorite of the barely affordable white (B). Best at 7-15 years from the vintage.

BEST PRODUCERS
Bonneau de Martray, Coche-Dury (C-C), Latour, Jadot, Voarick, Bouchard (Le Corton), Moillard.

Pernand-Vergelesses

This small commune lies between Aloxe-Corton and Savigny-les-Beaune. Both red and white wines are produced here. Except for the Corton Charlemagne (which was covered under Aloxe-Corton) there are no Grand Crus in Pernand-Vergelesses.

VILLAGE WINE
About 25000 cases, 75% percent of which are red. The red are a bit hard and lacking in finesse. They take 4-5 years to mature (well sort of...). The white are firm, with mouth-watering acidity and are, IMHO, better value than the reds.

PREMIER CRU
About 5000 cases, mostly red. There are five Premier Crus of which the best by far is Ile de Vergelesses. The Ile de Vergelesses is a full bodied wine that has the most finesse, length and harmony of the commune. Les Vergelesses is second. The rest are not much different from the Villages wines. Best at 6-8 years from the vintage. Of the whites, Les Caradeaux, which lies just below the Corton-Charlemagne vineyard, is the best.

BEST PRODUCERS
Jadot, Chandon de Briailles, Bonneau du Martray, Chanson P&F, Latour, Voarick.

Savigny-les-Beaune

A bigger commune than Pernand. Mostly red wine though some (not too good) white is also produced. The Savigny wines are well known and available all over the world, due to the more than 1200000 bottles, the third largest production in the Cote de Beaune (after Beaune and Pommard).

VILLAGE WINE
About 60000 cases of mostly red wine. Usually attractive elegant and light. Although they can be consumed young, they do not posses the quality and intensity of the 1er Crus. The best examples however represent good value.

PREMIER CRU
About 40000 cases of mostly red wine. There are 18 Premier Crus in Savigny. The best known are Aux Vergelesses, La Dominode, Les Marconnets, Les Serpentieres and Les Narbatons. The Premier Crus represent two different styles. The ones that come from the Pernand-Vergelesses side develop a delicate, silky texture and floral bouquet with age (Les Serpentieres, Aux Vergelesses). The wines that come from the more gravelly, less clayey, soil near Beaune are rounder, more complete, and take less time to open up (Les Marconnets, La Dominode, Les Narbatons). A fine Savigny Premier Cru has a wonderfully scented aroma with elegant taste. Best at 6-9 years from the vintage (though I've had an excellent 25 years Serpentieres from Leroy...).

BEST PRODUCERS
Leroy, Jadot, Chandon de Briailles, Bonneau du Martray, Morot, Latour, Tollot-Beaut.

Beaune

The vineyards surrounding the wine capital of Bourgogne produce a huge amount (in Bourgogne terms) of wine, 94% of which is red. There are no Grand Crus in Beaune, but there are many decent, sometimes even superb, Premier Crus.

VILLAGE WINE
About 50000 cases. Less common than the Premier Crus, and usually not very distinctive. The good examples are straight forward Pinot Noir fruit and harmonious finish. Don't confuse the straight Beaune with the Cote de Beaune or Cote de Beaune Villages. Best 4-8 years old.

PREMIER CRU
About 120000 cases. There are 28 Premier Cru vineyards in Beaune. As usual, even potentially they do not all have the same quality, let alone in practice. As everywhere in Bourgogne, the winemaker is not less important than the vineyard. Beaune in particular is the stronghold of the big negociant firms. They all own famous parcels here. Jadot's Clos des Ursules (a monopole sub-plot in the Vignes Franches vineyard), Drouhin's Clos des Mouches (red and fantastic white), even Bouchard's La Vigne de L'Enfant Jesus, are all excellent wines. The Premier Cru vineyards of Beaune can be divided into two groups. The northern vineyards (Les Marconnets, Clos du Roi, Les Cent Vignes, Les Bressandes, Les Greves etc.) are firm and complete, with velvety finish, wines of great breed that are excellent at 10 years and may last 20. The southern vineyards (Clos des Mouches, Clos de la Mousse, Les Vignes Franches, Les Boucherottes etc.) are just as elegant, but softer and quicker maturing.

BEST PRODUCERS
Jadot, Drouhin, Bouchard P&F, Latour, Tollot-Beaut, R. Ampeau, Hospice de Beaune, Morot, Leroy.

Pommard

Situated between Beaune and Volnay, Pommard produces red wine only. Back in the 19th century Pommard (like Nuits-St. George in the Cote de Nuits) was sitting pretty in comparison to its neighbors. Most of the south-of-Beaune less-than-exalted wine was sold in Pommard's town-market, and thus became known as "Pommard" whether it came from Pommard, Volnay, Monthelie etc. (this was before the laws of "Appellation Controlee" dictated a wine should be sold by the location of the vineyard). Couple that with the fact that the name 'Pommard' is easy to pronounce, and you have a recipe for a marketing success of a generally tough, heady, inelegant wine. There are apparently a few very good Pommard made from its best vineyards by the best of its winemaker. These, unfortunately, are the exceptions and not the rule.

VILLAGE WINE
About 80000 cases. The wines tend to be full and tannic, many are lacking in fruit, all are short on finesse. They generally follow the old-fashion misconception that Burgundy must be heavy and unsavory.

PREMIER CRU
About 50000 cases. There are more than 20 Premier Cru vineyards in Pommard. Some of them are not much better than the village wines, most are better but still nothing to write home about. There are two are exceptions: Les Epenots and Les Rugiens (especially the 'Rugiens Bas'). At the hands of some excellent producers these are really superb wines. Les Epenots is a soft wine with a rich heady bouquet and velvet finish. Les Rugiens is a sumptuous deep-colored wine with the weight of Corton and the elegance of Volnay. Unfortunately we are talking about less than 2% of what is sold under the name of Pommard. These wines takes 10-15 years to open up.

BEST PRODUCERS
Michel Gaunoux, Dom. de Montille, Billard-Gonnet, Dom. Parent, Dom. de Courcel, Comte Armand.

Volnay

Red wine only is made in on the gentle slopes of this small village situated between Pommard and Meursault. As was explained above, in the old days Volnay had the distinct disadvantage of selling its own wine through the town-market of Pommard and thus not making a name for itself. Except for a few well-known vineyards, Volnay had to struggle hard when the new laws decreed that wine from Volnay must be sold as Volnay.

VILLAGE WINE
About 50000 cases. Straight Volnay is generally of much higher quality than straight Pommard. Volnay is usually characterized as graceful, elegant, smooth and harmonious. The wines are often compared with Chambolle-Musigny in the Cote de Nuits. May be drank at 4-5 years, and will improve for a few years more.

PREMIER CRU
About 30000 cases. There are no less than 26 Premier Crus in Volnay. Just as the Villages wines, the 1er Crus are generally noted for their fragrance and 'femininity', though some of them have excellent underlying structure and can age very well. The best vineyards are Les Caillerets, Champans and Santenots on the Meursault side, Clos des Chenes up on the slope, Bousse d'Or, Taille Pied and Clos des Ducs near the village. The Caillerets, especially the Clos de 60 Ouvree from the Domaine de la Pousse d'Or, is the most profound of the pack, the others are more delicate. From good source, all are a pleasure to drink. Best drank at 6-12 years.

BEST PRODUCERS
Comte Lafon, Marquis d'Angerville, Pousse d'Or, Dom. de Montille, M. Lafarge, Rossignol.

Meursault

The famous town of Meursault lies between Volnay and Puligny-Montrachet. Although a tiny quantity of red wine is made and sold as Meursault, its world-wide reputation certainly stems from the full-bodied, rich, complex yet very dry white wines.

VILLAGE WINE
About 140000 cases. Village Meursault usually reflect the character of the appellation and are of good quality. Some 'climats' such as Clos de la Barre and Les Narvaux, especially at the hands of the better producers, are often at the Premier Cru level. The best examples should always display some 'fatness' or buttery texture and feel. Straight Meursault are at their best 3-5 years after the vintage.

PREMIER CRU
About 60000 cases. The Premier Cru of Meursault are among the richest, most luscious dry white wines in the world. There are a dozen or so very well-known names, some of which are further 'personalized' by the specific sub-plot of the vineyard. The best vineyards are Les Perrieres, Les Charmes, Genevrieres and Les Gouttes d'Or. Many concur that Les Perrieres should be promoted to a Grand Cru status. I certainly agree with that notion, especially for the sub-plot of Clos des Perrieres, a monopole of Albert Grivault. A good Meursault 1er Cru should have a rich texture, aroma, taste and long lingering aftertaste. Hazelnuts, butter and spices are often associated with its flavors. Best at 5-8 years (and more).

BEST PRODUCERS
Comte Lafon, Coche-Dury, A. Grivault, R. Ampeau, Guy Roulot, Michelot-Buisson.

Puligny-Montrachet

Certainly the most celebrated commune for dry white wines in the Cote d'Or.
No superlatives can do justice to the great Grand Crus that are within the boundaries of this lucky commune. Puligny shares with its neighbor Chassagne some of the most fabled names in the world of white wines. Also, here the confusion of Burgundy names has been brought to an art form. The pivot name is of course Montrachet, arguably and potentially the best white vineyard in the world. Everyone has availed itself of the name Montrachet in this area, even Grand Cru vineyards on their own merit felt they should append Montrachet to their name. So we have Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet, both village names (and thus also names for the corresponding commune-level wines). Then we have Batard-Montrachet, Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet and of course (Le) Montrachet as the epitome of Grand Cru. (Montrachet and Batard-Montrachet are shared with the commune of Chassagne-Montrachet)

VILLAGES WINE
About 55000 cases of wine of which 90% is white. The straight Puligny wines are firmer, less opulent, less fat but more elegant than those of Meursault. They do not usually represent good value, as they are relatively expensive without good reason except for the reputation of the name Montrachet. Best be consumed 2-5 years after the vintage.

PREMIERS CRUS
About 40000 cases of white-only wine. There are about a dozen Premier Cru vineyards in Puligny, each has its own characteristics, but they all share the lean, clean and elegant structure and taste. The more important ones are Les Combettes, Les Folatieres, Les Pucelles, Les Clavoillons, Le Cailleret and Champ Canet. These wine are notably more expensive than the straight Puligny-Montrachet, but from a good source (there are quite a few excellent producers) and a good vintage they can be truly superb. Should be kept at least 4 years and can improve for more than 8.

GRAND CRU
Montrachet: About 2500 cases. This ultimate-giant of wines is potentially the best dry white wine in the world. Potentially, because (not unlike its Cote de Nuits red counterpart - Chambertin) the vineyard is divided among too many owners. At its best, Montrachet combines the richness of Batard-Montrachet with the finesse of Chevalier-Montrachet. Intense floral aroma with great concentration of fruit. Twice as expensive as Chevalier-Montrachet but seldom twice as good. Best examples come from DRC, Lafon, Ramonet, Laguiche (Drouhin) and Delagrange. Should be drank from 7 to 15 years after the vintage.

Chevalier Montrachet: About 2000 cases. Directly above the Montrachet vineyard, entirely in Puligny-Montrachet. Chevalier-Montrachet is a wine of great floral finesse. Usually has enough acidity to stand to the 13%-14% alcohol. Its finish is endless. Extremely expensive but divine! Best from Leflaive, Verget, Sauzet, Jadot and Latour (the 'Demoiselles' sub-plot). Best at 6-12 years but can last longer.

Batard Montrachet: About 4200 cases. Directly below the Montrachet vineyard, Batard-Montrachet is usually full bodied, has great richness and intensity. Good examples are golden in color, have nutty toasty bouquet, mouth-filling fruit, complexity and harmony. Best from Leflaive, Ramonet, Sauzet and Niellon. Best at 6-13 years.

Bienvenues Batard Montrachet: About 1000 cases. Extremely fine wine from this tiny vineyard. A bit lighter than the Batard-Montrachet but supremely elegant. Best from Leflaive and Ramonet. Best at 5-10 years.

BEST PRODUCERS
Leflaive, Ramonet, Sauzet, Verget, Chartron, Nielon, Jadot, Latour, Drouhin.

Chassagne-Montrachet

Chassagne-Montrachet is the last important commune of the Cote d'Or. Lying just south of Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne shares in the glory of having within its boundaries the illustrious Montrachet and Batard-Montrachet. Additionally, it has one Grand Cru that is all in Chassagne.
Unlike Puligny, Chassagne produces both red and white wines. In general its wines are richer than those of Puligny but may be less elegant.

VILLAGE WINE
About 150000 cases of which 56% is red and 44% is white. The Village red Chassagne are firm, fruity and have good color. The general quality for the red is quite high and as they are relatively inexpensive they often represent good value. The Village whites are usually fruity with good structure but not much style. They are very tasty but never cheap. Best at 2-5 years from the vintage.

PREMIER CRU
About 60000 of roughly equal amount of red and white wine. It is quite unusual to find in the Cote d'Or Premier Cru vineyards that produce both reds and whites. Chassagne-Montrachet is the exception in that respect.
The reds have deep color, spicy bouquet and dry-fruit flavors. They are a bit rough when young and take years to open up. The best vineyards for reds are Clos St. Jean, Clos de la Chapelle, Morgeot, Clos Pitois and Clos de la Boudriotte. They are best drunk at 8-12 years.
The whites vary in style from the delicate and elegant Ruchottes through the light and stylish La Romanee to Les Caillerets, Clos Pitois and Morgeot with their intense and great length. They are best at 4-8 years.

GRAND CRU
(for Montrachet and Batard-Montrachet see under Puligny-Montrachet)

Criots-Batard-Montrachet: About 600 cases are made of this smallest white Grand Cru vineyard. The wine is elegant and firm, less 'showy' than Batard. The main producer for Criots-Batard-Montrachet is Blain-Gagnard and Louis Latour. Best at 5-9 years.

BEST PRODUCERS
Ramonet, Delagrange, Bachelet, Morey, Blain-Gagnard, Laguiche, Duc de Magenta