Steven Spurrier (along with Hugh Johnson) was my wine mentor for many years without ever being aware of it of course. His book "Guide to French Wines" was the second wine book I ever owned. He used to own a famous wine shop in Paris. Today, on top of being Consulting Editor to the Decanter, he is wine consultant to several airlines and other institutions.
The theme of this Master Class was a horizontal comparison of vintage Champagne, mostly from the superb 1990 vintage.
We tasted 10 different Vintage Champagne in five pairs and discussed each pair as we went along. Mr. Spurrier noted that Champagne comparative tasting are far less common than still-wine tasting. Champagne is usually drank, not 'tasted'. In his understated British style, he often quoted from the producers' 'poetic' descriptions of their own Champagne, good-heartedly ridiculing their pompous choice of words.
On to he wines...

MOET & CHANDON 1992 - 45% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier. Very light appearance, looking almost watery. Relatively few bubbles. Very pleasant creamy yeasty nose with tones of butter and roasted almonds. Mouth-filling and warm on the palate, spicy touch. Good acidity.
Excellent! MARK 17/20.

RUINART 1992 - 58% PN, 48% CH. Also very light in color. Heavier nose than the Moet. Firmer, more yeasty and less yielding. Pretty tasty but still closed.
Good. MARK 15/20.



CHARLES HEIDSIECK 1990 - 70% PN, 30% CH. Very light color, nice tiny bubbles. Unpleasant musky nose. Smell of sweat! Very acidic, on the verge of being spoiled.
Less-than-good. MARK 14/20.

LAURENT PERRIER 1990 - 45% PN, 55% CH. A bit darker in color than the three previous bottles. Beautiful up-streaming bubbles stemming up from the center like a perfect fountain. Excellent fruity, creamy mature nose. Mouth-filling, long aftertaste, perfect balance.
Superb!! MARK 18/20.



TAITTINGER 1990 - 60% PN, 40% CH. Medium yellow, nice bubbles. Pleasant flowery creamy nose with fruit elements. Tasty fruit on the palate with good grip and acidity.
Excellent! MARK 17/20.

LANSON 1990 - 52% PN, 48% CH. Pinkish hue, small pretty bubbles. Unpleasant (Vermouth?) nose. Spicy and acidic on the palate.
Good. MARK 15/20.



GARDET 1990 - 33% PN, 33% CH, 33% PM. Light look, small bubbles. Flowers, grass and light fruit on the nose. Very tasty, good acidity and balance.
Very-good-plus. MARK 16+/20.

VEUVE CLICQUOT 1990 - 56% PN, 33% CH, 11% PM. Medium light appearance with beautiful bubbles. Deep mature fruity nose with yeasty tones. Big wine on the palate, mature yet fresh. Lemon, mango flavors.
Superb!! MARK 18/20.



PIPER HEIDSIECK 1989 - 70% PN, 30% CH. Slightly pinkish appearance, nice bubbles. Fresh fruit on the delicate nose. Creamy, full and very pleasant on the palate. A bit reserved at the finish.
Excellent! MARK 17/20.

MUMM 1989 - 75% PN, 25% CH. Medium light appearance. Creamy yeasty nose with roasted almonds. Extremely tasty with good acidity and beautiful balance.
Excellent-plus! MARK 17+/20.

Back to the "Decanter Wine Encounter" page

Copyright 1996-2003.
Jacob "Yak" Shaya.