The fourth and last Master Class on the first day was given by Bruce Guimaraens, the legendary owner and winemaker of the great house of Fonseca. Mr. Guimaraens, an Englishman to the core if born and lived all his life in Portugal, has just released the winemaking duties to his son after being at the helm for more than 35 years.
Resembling somewhat the British actor Robert Morley, Bruce comes thru as an intriguing mixture. A bastion of conservatism on one hand (they will never replace foot treading) and an great innovator on the other (introducing new forms of port all the time). Someone who takes his winemaking very seriously, but jokes openly about the hoopla his wines get. A fascinating man!
We tasted ten Fonseca wines. From the dry white "Siroco" to the Vintage Port of 1970. In no other Master Class, the increase in quality as we climbed the ladder was so evident. A very enjoyable and educative session.

SIROCO - Dry white wine (30 gr of residual sugar), aged for three years in wood barrels then a few weeks in stainless steel. Highly acidic, reminded me of dry Sherry. Not really exciting.
Good. MARK 15/20.

BIN 27 - Dark looking, sweet, fruity. Full bodied but lack complexity. Again, not very exciting.
Very-good. MARK 16/20.

LBV (Late Bottled Vintage) 1992 - This "poor-man's Vintage Port" was very dark, with toffy and orange tones on the nose. Sweet but tough and tannic on the palate.
Very-good-plus. MARK 16+/20.

10 YEARS TAWNY - Medium color, nuts and marzipan on the nose, plenty of fresh fruit on the palate. Nicely balanced.
Excellent! MARK 17/20.

20 YEARS TAWNY - Quite pale in appearance. Fruit and caramel on the nose. Very delicate on the palate. Excellent acidity and perfect balance.
Superb! MARK 18/20.

FONSECA 1982 "Guimaraens" - The "Guimaraens" bottling signifies a vintage port that was not officially 'declared'. Pretty dark, soft pleasant and smooth. Lots of acidity.
Excellent! MARK 17/20.

FONSECA 1985 - Very dark color, tea and caramel notes on the nose. Plenty of fruit with good acidity on the palate.
Excellent-plus! MARK 17+/20.

FONSECA 1994 - Jet black appearance. Closed nose. Profound but extremely tannic on the palate. Too closed now but probably get much better in distant future.
Very-good. MARK 16/20.

FONSECA 1995 "Guimaraens" - As black as the '94. More forward nose, soft and pleasant on the palate.
Excellent! MARK 17/20.

FONSECA 1970 - A bit pale comparatively. Very complex nose of forest fruit, oranges, caramel and toffy. Pleasant fruit on the palate, good acidity and very long aftertaste.
Superb-plus! MARK 18+/20

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Copyright 1996-2003.
Jacob "Yak" Shaya.