Decanter Master Class, London 23-Nov-97
Essential Burgundy - Louis Jadot
Patrick McGrath
Naturally, I was looking forward to this Master Class. Unfortunately I was a little
bit disappointed. Patrick McGrath is a "Master of Wine" and acts as Jadot's
distributor in England.
My complaint is not towards his presentation but rather to the choice of wines we
were presented with. Being a (B) buff for twenty years now, I have come to know well
and appreciate the top wines of the house of Jadot. These top wines are on par with
those of the best individual producers. Furthermore, having under his belt so many
great vineyards in the Cote d'Or, a serious comparative study of the subtleties of
different terroir is what I would have expected here.
The wines chosen for this tasting were from the bottom-to-medium of Jadot's line,
far from representing what this house can and does achieve. Just to put things in
perspective, the best wine we were given is cheaper than the cheapest of the 17
different Jadot wine I currently have.
OK, 'nuf complaining an on to the tasting.
BEAUJOLAIS BLANC, GRAND CLOS DE LAYOSE CHATEAU DE JACQUES 1996 -
A long name for a simple white wine that is fermented and 'aged' in stainless steel. Pleasant
smell but unpleasant taste.
Less-than-good. MARK 14/20.
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1992 - No new wood was used to age this
village wine. Chalky, lemony pleasant nose. Reasonably tasty though lacks depth. Short on
acidity too.
Good. MARK 15/20.
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET "MORGEOT" 1992 - Light soft yeasty nose
of pears and peaches. Elegant, lean with good acidity. Requires a few more years.
Very-good. MARK 16/20.
MEURSAULT "BLAGNY" 1992 - Minerals, butter and roasted
almonds on the nose. Fat and mouth-filling on the palate. Apples and some oak. Good acidity.
Very-good-plus. MARK 16+/20.
MOULIN A VENT, GRAND CLOS DE ROCHEGRES CHATEAU DE JACQUES 1966 -
This red Beaujolais had the purple hue of Gamey. Black fruit on the nose. Big, rich and coarse on
the palate. Needs time.
Very-good. MARK 16/20.
BEAUNE "BOUCHEROTTES" 1993 - Good nose of black fruit but
devoid of any 'Bourgogne Nose'. Full bodied, pretty rich and round. A bit 'dusty' in the mouth.
Very-good-plus. MARK 16+/20.
BEAUNE "CLOS DES URSULES" 1993 - The crown of Jadot's Beaune
wines. Similar nose to the "Boucherottes", more delicate on the palate, noticeable cherry flavors.
Excellent! MARK 17/20.
SANTENAY "CLOS DE MALTE" 1993 - Red fruit aromas surrounded
by soft and pleasant 'Bourgogne Nose'. Warm, firm and tannic on the palate.
Very-good. MARK 16/20.
CORTON GRAND CRU 1993 - A lesser wine than the single-plot
"Corton, Pouget", this wine is a melange from different holdings in the Corton appellation. Almost
no nose to speak of. Tannic with little noticeable fruit on the palate. Obviously needs time.
Good. MARK 15/20.
CORTON GRAND CRU 1989 - Pleasant 'Bourgogne Nose' behind wood
and cherry aromas. Good grip on the palate with sweetish touch at the finish.
Excellent! MARK 17/20.
CORTON GRAND CRU 1978 - Fantastic complex 'Bourgogne Nose'.
Mature, soft, with velvety concentrated winyness on the palate. Beautifully balanced.
Superb!! MARK 18/20.
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Jacob "Yak" Shaya.