There is no better international ambassador of German wines today than the articulated, energetic and one of the best winemakers in Germany - Ernst Loosen.
There are other fine young winemakers in Germany today. They all do the right things in their vineyards and cellars, and they all share the wish to elevate world-wide appreciation to German Riesling back to where it was before "Blue Nun" and "Leibfraumilch". However, no one has succeeded in conveying the message better than Ernst Loosen.
His estate - Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel - lies on the banks of Mosel and is 11.6 hectars. Within the estate there are four Grand Cru vineyards: Erdener Pralat, Erdener Trappchen, Urziger Wurzgarten and Wehlener Sonnenuhr, and two Premiere Cru: Bernkasteler Lay and Graacher Himmelreich. The sole grape (apart from a negligible quantity of Rivaner) is the noble Riesling. The vines are 60-100 years old, the average yield is 50 Hl/ha and the total production is 6400 cases.
Vinification utilizes very slow fermentation with natural yeast in stainless steel or oak casks followed by very light filtration.
In addition to his own estate, Ernst Loosen holds by lease the vineyards of the J.L Wolf, Wachenheim in the Pfalz region. This 10 ha. estate boasts the following Grand Cru vineyards: Forster Pechstein, Forster Jesuitengarten, Forester Ungeheuer, Wachenheimer Goldbeckel and Wachenheimer Gerumpel. There are some lesser vineyards too. Apart from the Riesling (80%), there are some Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and other grapes. The vines age is 20-30 years, the average yield 45 Hl/ha and the production about 5000 cases.
We were treated to eight wines from Dr. Loosen estate and four from the J.L Wolf estate. We tasted the wines in pairs. With each pair, Ernst had a specific point of contrast to highlight. The general quality of the wines was exceptionally high. The general rule here is low alcohol, some natural sweetness and high degree of perceived acidity. This combination gives the sensation of concentrated freshness and unctuous elegance.


DR. LOOSEN RIESLING 1996 - The simple Riesling from Dr. Loosen estate (Retails for about $10 in London). 8.5% alcohol. Very pleasant grapy aromas on the nose. On the palate, acidity balances sweetness very nicely.
Good-plus. MARK 15+/20.

DR. LOOSEN RIESLING TROCKEN 1996 - One step up from the simple Riesling (about $11). 11% alcohol. A whole vineyard on the nose. Fresh, sweetish and highly acidic.
Very-good. MARK 16/20.



DR. LOOSEN "WEHLENER SONNENUHR", RIESLING KABINETT 1996 - The 'basic' wine from the famous Grand Cru Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard (about $15). 7.5% alcohol! Amazing freshness of peaches and flowers on the nose. Soft, sweetish and well balanced on the palate.
Excellent! MARK 17/20.

DR. LOOSEN "WEHLENER SONNENUHR", RIESLING KABINETT 1975 - Same wine only 21 years older! Petrol and fungi on the nose. Smooth, dry sweetness , perfect balance. A totally different wine than the '96.
Excellent-plus! MARK 17+/20.



DR. LOOSEN ERDENER TREPPCHEN, RIESLING SPATLESE 1996 - Now, a 'spatlese' from the Grand Cru Erdener Treppchen vineyard (about $25). Wonderful nose of rich fruit and some hints of petrol. Extremely tasty with fresh sweetness balanced by excellent acidity.
Superb!! MARK 18/20.

DR. LOOSEN URZIGER WURZGARTEN, RIESLING SPATLESE 1996 - Another 'spatlese', this time from the Urziger Wurzgarten Grand Cru vineyard (about $25). Less obvious fruit on the nose but more complex with hints of guava added to those of grapes and petrol. Exceptionally tasty with great balance between fruit, sweetness and acidity.
Superb-plus!! MARK 18+/20.



DR. LOOSEN WEHLENER SONNENUHR, RIESLING AUSLESE 1994 - On to the 'auslese' level, again from the Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard (about $27). 8.5% alcohol. Sweet nose of round fruit. Really sweet but finely balanced by acidity.
Superb!! MARK 18/20.

DR. LOOSEN WEHLENER SONNENUHR, RIESLING AUSLESE GOLDKAPSEL 1994 - The top-of-the-line "Gold Capsule" (about $40). 8.5% alcohol. Very fruity and flowery aromas with less sweetness but more honey tones. More creamy than fruity on the palate. Amazing wine!
Extraordinary!!! MARK 19/20.



J.L WOLF GRAUBURGUNDER SPATLESE TROCKEN 1996 - A dry Pinot Gris from the Wolf estate in the Pfalz. At 13.5% alcohol, a huge wine in german terms. Minerally nose, full bodied, less fruity than Dr. Loosen Rieslings. A food wine.
Very-good. MARK 16/20.

J.L WOLF FORSTER JESUITENGARTEN, RIESLING AUSLESE TROCKEN 1996 - This is an Alsatian-style dry Riesling from the Wolf estate. Enticing grapy fruity nose. Completely dry yet very fruity on the palate. Beautifully balanced. Another food wine.
Excellent-plus! MARK 17+/20.



J.L WOLF FORSTER STIFT RIESLING, KABINETT 1996 - A simple Cru vineyard. Flowers, pineapple and minerals on the nose. Sweetish and fruity with good acidity to balance.
Excellent! MARK 17/20.

J.L WOLF WACHENHEIMER BELZ, RIESLING AUSLESE 1996 - A higher pedigree here (1er Cru as opposed to simple Cru, 'auslese' as opposed to 'kabinett'). Banana and peaches on the nose. Rounder and more mature, yet less interesting than the previous wine. Less perceived acidity too.
Very-good. MARK 16/20.


All in all a fantastic range of wines where the choice vineyards, the quality of winemaking and the enthusiasm of the winemaker - all become very apparent in the glass.

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Copyright 1996-2003.
Jacob "Yak" Shaya.